The Ann Demeulemeester show Saturday broke no new ground, but stayed close to the tropes for which this Belgian designer is well known. Funky menswear adapted for women contrasted with ethereal gowns, little black jackets layered over leather vests and flowing white shirt-dresses. Key looks included heavy black knits draped around the neck and what seemed like a new kind of corset in leather, wrapped around a white dress.
The girls wore the famous strappy Demeulemeester boots – just the thing for an independent, determined woman who doesn’t care too much what others think. On their heads were lightly feathered headdresses which lent them the air of winged Valkyries.
Though in the past Demeulemeester has experimented with subdued color, notably last season when she created a series of bunched and draped dresses in burnt orange – today there was nothing to be seen but white and black. It’s a pity the experimentation didn’t continue.
The show included a few looks for the gents which evoked 19th century Romanticism. But her vision for men is ultimately two-dimensional. The modern man is no Lord Byron, and his needs are more complex than a romantic fantasy.
Images courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.