News & Runway

PARIS: VIKTOR AND ROLF F/W 09

Viktor and Rolf put on a solid show Monday, filled with looks which were variously draped or ruched and one skirt in particular which looked like a bit of a geometry project. Stand-out pieces included a coat in silver with waves of fabric draped diagonally across the shoulders and a slim waist, and a couple of dresses which had rings of intricately gathered fabric cascading down the front.

Although Viktor & Rolf established their reputation with innovative shapes and construction techniques, in recent years it seemed as if the duo had run out of ideas. Though the two are famous for their unconventional shows, it sometimes felt as though the shows were gimmicks to cover up the lack of anything interesting on the runway.

Perhaps the acquisition of their company by Renzo Rosso, who controls the Diesel brand as well as Maison Martin Margiela, served to refocus their attention. What they produced this season was a mix of more innovative techniques with tried-and-true numbers such as nicely done tops, pants and jackets.

The dresses which closed the show hit the right note: majestic columns, they combined subdued silvers and whites with gentle splattery-looking prints — an interesting look, but not something which will overwhelm the woman inside.

Images courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.