News & Runway

Emilio Pucci Fall 2011 Runway Review

Emilio Pucci has gone through quite the transformation in the past few seasons. What used to be a luxury print line is now a full-fledged ready-to-wear house worthy of women's wallets, waists, and wears. And it's all because of Swedish designer, Peter Dundas, who at the helm of the legendary Italian house, makes some utterly fantastic clothes.


For Fall 2011, Dundas saw his woman as a taut, top-heavy, European bombshell. One whose more apt to dress up than down and looks to be more than comfortable in her own skin. So much so, in fact, she's amped up her most erogenous feature – the bust. Examine the low-cuts and cinched waists meant to accentuate her hourglass shape, symmetrical Rococo-like treatments used to center the eye, lace peek-a-boos set to frame the breasts, even the positioning of certain sequins – they're all adept plays on morphing the bustline. Even in his signature asymmetrical backless gowns with Ibizan palettes, Dundas still kept focus on the bosom. Suiting, which appeared slick and ultra-fitted, played upon the theme in a more literal way, flashing cleavage in unbuttoned blazers to purposely reveal the common denominator. 


Dundas knows precisely how to work the overdone and slightly dizzying Pucci archive in ways Matthew Williamson before him did not. Just look at the forms and adornments; you'll find some Victorian, Irish, and at times, even Alpine influences appear in many of the pieces presented. Especially in the cuts and corsetry, it becomes evident there was something of a historical ideal crossing the designer's mind, perhaps even Medieval. 


The modern Pucci gal surely has Dundas to thank for honoring her best assets this Fall. 


Photo credit: Vincenzo Grillo, IMAXTree