News & Runway

Erdem Spring 2012 Runway Review

A number of designers this season seem to have forgotten that these are the spring collections; autumnal palettes are popping up left and right but not at Erdem. In the ballroom of The Savoy, the designer’s signature florals took a more delicate turn with a cool palette filled with blues, greens, yellow, and blush. Delphiniums, primroses, and cornflowers swept across the body on delicate knee-length skirts and floor length gowns. The designer’s boyish experimentation, that we saw hints of last season, was shown again this season with slim tailored trousers and high-waisted shorts paired with buttoned up shirts both printed and plain. Where Erdem’s strength lies, beyond his indisputable talent, is in making a floral tea length dress look youthful and modern rather than matronly. 

The designer noted Wong Kar Wai’s In the Mood for Love, which also acted as soundtrack to the show, and Otto Preminger’s adaptation of Bonjour Tristesse as inspiration. This season’s shoestring straps and sheer overlays modernized the otherwise demure silhouettes. In spite of the designer’s grown-up sensibility, the styling alluded to a little girl playing dress up and this just might be the collection that gets Erdem on the starlet map. Some may say this collection was too quiet to make any waves, and that last season’s warm palette was more incendiary, but come spring, this is exactly what stylish women will want to be wearing.