The world is playing tricks on us this season in Paris. The weather outside is swelteringly hot, in spite of the fall date on the calendar, and the collections on the runways are moody and dark in spite of it being the spring shows. The designers may be going for seasonless clothes but they're coming across as dark and definitely more suitable for fall. At the Yohji Yamamoto presentation, we saw the conceptual fan favorite designer play with some of his usual shapes and motifs with slight alterations. The palette was a story of black, white, and blue with a splash of violet here and there. Some have said this is the more romantic side of Yamamoto but the designer’s loyal fan base won’t be disappointed by the dramatic separates and eye-catching designs.
With an Alice in Wonderland lens, Yamamoto played with proportion and volume at every level. The first look, which featured a billowing train and oversized hat, came before a series of shrunken blazers and drawstring pants. Cuts reminded us of Yamamoto’s penchant for French revolutionary design elements and allusions to his sporty side were throughout.